Having a whale of a time

For many, the word “Patagonia” conjures up images of glaciers, lakes and mountains, but our journey through this region so far has shown us a different aspect of this southern region of Argentina (which also extends into Chile) – the Patagonian Steppe.  This area, bounded by the Atlantic Ocean to the east and the Andes mountains to the west is also known as the Patagonian Desert, is the 7th largest desert in the world.  With an annual rainfall of only 200mm (compared with over 6,000mm in parts of the Andes), the landscape is dominated by endless grassy plains and small shrubs, with extensive grazing of cattle and sheep.  It is perhaps surprising then that within this environment sits the Reserva Faunistica Peninsula Valdes which is considered to be Argentina’s premier wildlife experience.  And it certainly didn’t disappoint, providing us with a fantastic day of wildlife viewing under a brilliant blue sky.

Valdes Peninsula coastline

The roads through the reserve - plenty of wide open spaces

Starting out early on Saturday morning, our guide Martin and our driver Roberto picked us up from our hostel and we drove to the reserve.  Martin was a fantastic guide – plenty of information delivered with a touch of humour – and we all started to learn more about the flora and fauna of the reserve. 
As well as being a wildlife reserve, the peninsula is also grazing land, and the wildlife co-exists with sheep, cattle and horses.  In order to allow the wildlife to cross farm boundaries, the fences have been specially designed – slightly lower than standard fences to allow the guanacos (llama-like animals) to jump the fences, which they can do from a standing start, and with a slightly larger gap between the ground and the first string of wire, to allow the ground animals to pass underneath.

Guanacos

We stopped briefly at the information centre where we were able to see the skeleton of one of the reserve’s major drawcards, the Southern Right Whale.

Colin & Heather with the Southern Right Whale skeleton

From there we headed out into the reserve to Caleta Valdes where there is a colony of Magellanic penguins.  It was lovely to watch them interact with each other, and they didn’t appear to mind our presence at all, watching us with equal interest.

Who doesn't love penguins?

Cousin to the albatross, this was one big bird!

Continuing through the reserve, we headed for the southernmost point, Punta Delgada, which is home to a permanent colony of elephant seals.  Although the males are currently out at sea, the females and their calves can be found lazing on the shore.  These huge creatures can reach 5m in length and several tonnes in weight.  Their name comes from the large “nose” on the males which are used as megaphones to allow them to call to the females and intimidate the other males so as to secure their harem during breeding season.

Punta Delgada lighthouse

Elephant seals

Hard to capture in a photograph the noise that accompanies this seal's open mouth! 

Stunning coastline

Heading down to the beach

Angela, Steve, Karen, Heather, Anthony and Neil

Nope, they aren't rocks on the water's edge!

The seals weren’t the only attraction, with Mikkel continuing his wildlife capture and release programme with a lizard, and Robin spotting a huge tarantula!

Mikkel

While driving through the reserve, we also found a mara (an endemic rodent), a Darwin’s Rhea (similar to an emu or ostrich), and a burrowing owl.

Mother and baby Mara

Mother and baby Rhea, superb camouflage

The burrowing owl comes in to land

The park’s main attraction from July to December are the Southern Right Whales who come into the protected bays around the peninsula to breed.  Although they can often be seen from land, the best way to see these magnificent and endangered creatures is on a boat trip and so most of the group headed out on a large zodiac to find the whales.  The weather could not have been more perfect, with no wind (Patagonia is known for its wind!), and so the seas were calm and the water clarity amazing.
Just a few minutes after we set off, a pod of dolphins came up to the boat, their grace in the water quite incredible to watch.

Boarding the zodiac on the beach, before the boat is pushed into the water by a tractor 

Playful dolphins

Continuing further into the bay, we found what we were looking for, whales!  The mothers and their calves treated us to quite a show – “sailing” (the mother inverts herself leaving her tail above the water), diving and approaching the boat.  It was an amazing experience, even for those who have been whale watching before, and topped off a fantastic day in the reserve.

Steve brings out the big guns

The v-shaped blow that is unique to the Southern Right Whale

The massive head of a mother whale

Just doing a bit of sailing

Time to dive

Duncan puts the Odyssey stamp on our Valdes tour bus

The next day Francois and Tony went diving and snorkelling with sea lions, while others explored the town, visited the Eco Centro or relaxed on the beach.

Francois

Anenomes

The Welsh settlers originally lived in these caves on the shore of the bay 

Heather and Lisa test the water

The Eco Centro

Then it was time to say goodbye to the hot weather for a while as we head south towards the glaciers, lakes and stunning vistas of the Andes mountains.  Another overnight bus, this time with bingo (a great way to test our knowledge of Spanish numbers!) and a glass or two of red wine, took us to Rio Gallegos, and then another bus took us on the (relatively) short hop to El Calafate where we are today.  While on the overnight bus we received the fantastic news that our expedition vehicle, Ithaca, has finally made it onto South American soil!  In only a few days we should all be reunited – we can’t wait!!

Vanessa and Lisa enjoying a bit of bus luxury

And we’re off!

Welcome to Odyssey Overland’s 2012 South American Explorer expedition.  As I write this we are in Puerto Madryn, a (mere) 18-hour bus ride south of Buenos Aires.  A bus?  Yes, well, thanks to a few technical difficulties experienced by our shipping company, we are starting this expedition while our truck is still on the ship on which it has travelled from the UK!  But this isn’t just any bus – the long distance coaches in South America have to be seen to be believed – massive seats that recline almost flat, food and drinks presented to you on a tray during the journey, and a glass of champagne after dinner (well, the champagne was promised, but didn't seem to appear...)  Not quite overlanding as we know it!  But it should only be a couple of days until we are reunited with our trusty truck Ithaca and we will have plenty of chance to get to know her over the next 6+ months.

A quick introduction to the group – here we all are (well, except for Pete who was the cameraman) at a steakhouse (or parilla) in Buenos Aires on the first night of the expedition.


Starting from the left: Graham, Mikkel, Vanessa, Keith, Neil, Kirsten, Lesley, Terry, Geoff, Tony, Francois, Duncan, Angela, Karen, Steve, Ken, Robin, Sue, Jeanne, Anthony, Heather, Lisa, Jane and Colin.

We are delighted to have such a great group of people on the trip and are really looking forward to exploring South America together.

So what have we been up to so far?  The trip started in Buenos Aires on Tuesday, and many of the group chose to come over a few days early to explore the city and get into the Argentinian vibe.  Forget jetlag, the most difficult adjustment is to eating times, with dinner often eaten at 10pm or later!  Speaking of eating, it would be remiss of me not to mention the food that we have all been enjoying here in Buenos Aires.  Unfortunately not exactly a vegetarian’s paradise, the focus is on the excellent Argentine beef, bife de chorizo (sirloin steak), and bife de lomo (tenderloin steak) being particular favourites (the morchilla (blood sausage) less so…)  Serving sizes are usually huge, thoughts of losing weight on the trip quickly cast aside in the face of the meat feasts we have been presented with!  And the delicious dulce de leche isn’t helping either (a sort of caramelised condensed milk, wonderful spread on bread, or Heather’s preferred method of consumption, to eat it with a spoon!)

Getting to know the local cuts

A parilla, huge grill

Greater Buenos Aires is the second largest metropolitan area in South America after Sao Paolo in Brazil, and more than 30% of Argentina’s population live in the city, yet it still retains a fairly relaxed and calm feel (perhaps except for the taxi drivers; Sue, Mikkel and I had a particularly interesting journey with AC DC on full volume which seemed to spur the driver on in his efforts to weave in and out of the heavy peak hour traffic).  The people we have met have been very friendly, smiling kindly at our attempts to speak in Spanish (which can only improve from here!) and assisting us thereafter in embarrassingly good English.

The city of Buenos Aires is split into a number of different barrios or areas, and each has quite a different personality.

La Boca is the most (literally) colourful barrio, with brightly coloured corrugated iron buildings on its famous Caminito street.  Add to that a bit of street theatre, tango demonstrations and the occasional drumming band, and it is a happening, vibey place, well worth a wander and a great place to sit in a cafe and watch the world go by.  La Boca is also home to one of Buenos Aires’ two football (soccer) teams – Boca Juniors – and their stadium continues the colourful theme.  Football is not just a sport here, it is a passion and tensions can run high when rival teams meet!

Boca Juniors stadium

Yes, that is a dog wearing jeans, a t-shirt and hat

Tango is another passion in Argentina, and many of the restaurants around the Plaza Dorrego offer the chance to watch a tango show.  Not content to be merely an audience member, Francois briefly took to the stage as well.

Francois strutting his stuff

On Sundays, Plaza Dorrego hosts an antique market where you can buy anything from knives and antique pistols to wedding dresses, car registration plates and the wonderful sifonaza (soda water bottles) in every colour imaginable.





Buenos Aires is also known as the “Paris of South America”, perhaps it is the classic European architecture that draws the comparison, or the love of outdoor cafes where you can watch the world go by?

The obelisco

Av 9 de Julio

Casa Rosada

Bs As (as it is locally referred to) also claims the title “City of Design”, and there are some striking modern architecture and sculptures that sit alongside the more classic designs.  The unexpectedly beautiful Floralis Generica is a huge metal flower whose petals are designed to close at night (although currently the mechanism is broken, and quotes range up to US$200,000 to fix it).





The Puerte de la Mujer at the upmarket Puerto Madero canalside development also adds to the view from the cafes and restaurants that line the canal.



Bs As’s top tourist attraction is the Cementerio de la Recoleta, also said to be the most expensive real estate in town.  The cementary resembles a suburb in itself, with streets of marble mausoleums decorated with intricate carvings and beautiful statues.  It really has to be seen to be believed.  The most famous resident of the cemetery is Eva “Evita” Peron, such is the ongoing dedication to her that her family’s mausoleum is always decorated with floral tributes.









After a good couple of days exploring Bs As by foot, tram, train and bus, we were all ready to start heading south, leaving cities behind us for a while.  After taking taxis to the bus station, a few nervous moments when the bus was running 15 minutes late, and the coach drivers’ surprise at how much luggage we seemed to all have, we were settled into our luxury coach for the 1,300km overnight journey to Puerto Madryn, gateway to one of Argentina’s top wildlife destinations, the Valdez Peninsula, which we will be exploring on a full day tour tomorrow in search of the areas many land and marine based animals.  It is a fantastic feeling to be on the road, after all the planning and preparations that have happened over the past couple of years, and it is difficult to know who is more excited to be here – the crew or the expedition members!  One thing is for sure, we are all looking forward to an incredible journey!