Sunday, 10 February 2013

Enjoying the Emerald Coast

A spectacular mountain pass brought us down to the Emerald Coast of Brazil, and it was easy to see where the name came from, the lush jungle reaching all the way to the sea. Our destination was the town of Paraty, which combines beautiful colonial buildings, churches and cobbled streets with stunning islands and beaches. A great combination with something for everyone!

Our first day saw everyone head out to explore the town, plenty of photo opportunities wherever you looked, and plenty of cafes and beachside bars to sip on a cold coconut while engaging in the traditional overlanders' sport of people watching.
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Our time in Paraty coincided with a local festival, and being Saturday night, the central square was the place to be, live music and freshly made fruit cocktails, what could be better? Well, for Heather and Jeanne, their churros were strong contenders (long straight deep fried dough treats filled with chocolate sauce or our old favourite, dolce de leite).

As we approach Carnival, which we will be celebrating in Salvador, we are experiencing the somewhat nocturnal nature of Brazilians in a party mood! And so it was that we changed campsites after many of the group suffered a very disrupted night's sleep, but even in the new, quieter, campsite, local drumming bands could be heard until the (not so) early hours. It is taking some getting used to, but we all travel to experience different cultures, and this is an important part of the Brazilian cultural identity, so perhaps it is best for us to appreciate the quiet nights when we get them, and embrace the noisy ones when they come our way!

Parties in Paraty aside, one of the major draw cards for a visit to Paraty is the coast and warm water. Tony headed off to experience the deeper side of things with a couple of dives.
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Tony
Meanwhile, the rest of us headed out on a schooner to do a bit of island hopping, snorkelling and swimming. It's tough, but someone has to do it! Having carefully chosen the boat with the largest amount of shade, we arrived early to try to secure as much of the shade as possible, although by the end of the trip it was less about shade and more about protection from the rain! Yes, the weather didn't quite play along in the afternoon (but on a positive note, no one got sunburned), but it was still a fantastic day out and a great way to experience the stunning Emerald Coast.
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Heather, Lisa, Kirsten, Angela & Geoff

Happy Australia Day!  Our Aussies - Kirsten, Geoff, Angela & Duncan 
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Lisa & Sue
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Charlie's Angels - Lisa, Vanessa, Kirsten & Sue
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Francois
Vanessa, Francois & Sue
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Kirsten & Francois
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Karen
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Jeanne & Kirsten not put off by the rain!
Sleeping beauties - Lisa
Sleeping beauties - Ken, Robin & Jeanne
Sue, Vanessa & Lisa

A huge thanks as always to the expedition members who allow me to use their photos in the blog - it is great to be able to share these amazing images with you all back home and we hope you enjoy them as much as we do!
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Geoff










Saturday, 9 February 2013

Piranha fishing in the Pantanal

The Pantanal is the world's largest inland wetland area, roughly half the size of France, and is somewhere we will be visiting twice on this expedition. It is an area that teems with wildlife, and almost as soon as we crossed into the area we started seeing life everywhere including brightly coloured toucans, agouti, deer, quati and even caiman lounging in pools of water below the road while jabiru walk (quite carefully it seems!) around them.
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Quati
Cuati - Lisa
Quati
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Jabiru (white) and vultures (black) in flight, with caimans sunning themselves on the banks 
For our stay in this southern section of the Pantanal our base was on a farm, in a campsite on the edge of a river - given the heat we were all keen for a dip until we looked down the banks towards the caiman which were sunning themselves on the sand. Although (in theory) they aren't aggressive towards humans, it wasn't a theory any of us were willing to test... not even Duncan!
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Didn’t fancy a tent in this heat? Don't worry, there were plenty of hammocks available for a snooze during the day, or at night in the hammock "dorm" which several of the group opted to try out in preparation for the upcoming Amazon boat trip where hammocks are the only option for a couple of nights.
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Tony
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Day hammocks
Arriving into the camp around midday, we were given a briefing on the activities that we would be doing during our stay, and it was clear that it was going to be a busy time - horse riding, boat trips, piranha fishing, game drives, night drives... And we met the camp staff and guides as well as the cooks who seemed to work almost endlessly to ensure we had delicious meals, including some lovely traditional dishes.
For the first two activities, horse riding and and the boat trip which included a chance to go piranha fishing, we were split into two smaller groups lead by Tom and Pedro, our local guides.
The focus of the activities was to experience the wildlife in different ways and have the best chance of seeing some of the rarer species including jaguar (of which a recent paw print was seen, just to tease!).
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Jaguar footprint

Jeanne found her outing on the horse somewhat diminished her love for riding after an unexpected gallop, while the boat trip brought out the competitive side of many of the group, with the first group claiming the honours for the most fish caught (and they argue, the biggest fish as well), perhaps the second group should have left Pete back in camp as his fishing skills (or rather lack of fishing skills) are legendary on several continents!
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Tony, Ken, Steve, Karen & Duncan
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Francois & Geoff
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Capybara
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Up close and personal
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Oops, don't get too close!
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Angela, successful piranha fisherwoman! 
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Karen
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Anthony
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Sue
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Lisa and her (cooked) piranha
Apart from the rather fearsome piranha, other wildlife spotted while we were in the Pantanal included howler monkey, two foxes who wandered through camp, capybara, hyacinth macaws and caiman. In fact, some of us had a rather close encounter with a caiman after Mikkel, our very own Crocodile Hunter, walked back into camp one evening holding a rather large caiman, much to everyone's surprise, but Vanessa's in particular, causing her subsequent comment to be un-blog-friendly! But very funny!
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Mikkel, the Caiman Hunter
Terry & Mikkel with huge spider - Sue
Mikkel & Terry with a tarantula

The caimans were also a highlight of the final activity which saw the whole group head out on an afternoon and then night drive to search for wildlife, including a visit to a small waterhole populated with a truly unbelievable number of caimans.
Robin, Lesley, Terry, Neil, Keith, Vanessa, Jeanne, Heather, Pete, Mikkel, & Jane 
Thousands of caiman - Lisa
Thousands of caiman!
Caiman & Capybara - Lisa
Caiman sunset - Tony

Caimans - Lisa

Caimans & Lisa - Lisa
Lisa
To celebrate our final night at the camp, we were treated to a Brazilian BBQ, complete with some cachaca infused with honey and cinnamon which was enthusiastically imbibed by some of the group, who were a little less enthusiastic the next day!
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Brazilian BBQ
Unfortunately for those slightly under the weather, it was an early start as we started the first of a couple of drive days which reminded us of the sheer scale of Brazil. The largest country in South America, it makes up over half of the continent. On a world scale, only Russia, China, Canada and the USA are larger. The main roads in Brazil vary from huge dual carriageway motorways to winding single lane carriageways with broken tar, pot holes and unmarked hazards! But no matter what road you are on you can be assured you will be sharing it with plenty of trucks carrying freight, some of which can be up to 30 metres long which makes overtaking quite an undertaking (see what I did there?). The upside of all this trucking is the amazing truck stops along the way - facilities can include toilets (some of which have toilet paper, hand soap and hand towels thus earning them a 5 out of 5 in our view), showers (where you can find whole families doing their daily ablutions), snacks (deep fried goodness), all you can eat or by the kilo restaurants, and one even had a patisserie with incredible chocolate eclairs! Ah, its the small things, and on a journey like this, you can take the time to appreciate the the small things in life, as well as the big ones. Happy days on the road.
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Geoff, Steve & Karen

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Tony, Pete & Kirsten